The Arena da Amazônia sits on an elevated concrete plateau, overlooking a vista of car salesrooms, industrial warehouses and idle cement mixers parked in tidy rows. On World Cup gamedays, the roads are closed for blocks around, and fans are obliged to pass through two checkpoints staffed by military police before they even begin to negotiate the airport-style security in place at the actual stadium. Arrive early enough, before the fans, and a natural dip in the road makes it possible to...
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